Bike to Berlin 2025

The 8th May 2025 was the 80th anniversary of the WW2 armistice and, as a cyclist that enjoys long distance bike rides, I asked on various social media platforms in autumn 2024 if there was interest in joining me riding from The Cenotaph to Berlin, to arrive on 8/5/25. There was.

Day 1: Wednesday, 30/4/25 The Cenotaph - Calais: 84.43 miles

Meeting our group all together for the first time at the Cenotaph, we laid our wreath, recited the Exhortation - paused for a passing blue light - then dipped our RBL standard to honour our fallen. Ready in good time, we set off on our endeavour at 08:20 am, south along Whitehall; 9 cyclists and a support logistics minibus, borrowed from Forces United (https://forcesunited.co.uk/)

Our first incident was after only a mile or two at a traffic light, where I had stopped, unclipped, waiting for the lights to change. Anurag stopped next to me and unclipped - the wrong side - and fell against me, and I found myself on the floor. Bikes and their users can do curious things at times.

No harm done and we pushed on at a moderate pace, making good time to the Friends Cafe in Strood. Unfortunately, they make filled rolls to order and our time pressure meant that was a luxury we couldn’t afford. Just coffee it was, then - we had sufficient snacks with us anyway. However, Deborah - the manager of Akinola Foods next door - came out and when Chris said what we were doing she gave us a case of water!

We were soon out in the sticks, the weather sunny and a bit on the warm side. That water came in really handy, we all preferred the bottled version to the military style 25 litre can.

About 10 miles from Canterbury, and a little behind time Anurag had cramp which slowed our progress. I took the opportunity to take the short cut my route offered to recover a little time. We drew up a mere 30 or so minutes late at the Town Hall, greeted by The Right Worshipful, The Lord Mayor of Canterbury, Cllr Jean Butcher, her deputy Mayor, council dignitaries and officers of the Canterbury Branch, all through my contact there, Eric Hearn, Branch secretary. A splendid spread was laid on for us, and pretty soon there wasn’t much left.

I presented our certificates of appreciation (CoA) to Jean and Eric, and we set off on our last stage of the day to Dover. There would be a few more to present on the ride.

Not long after, Anurag had dropped off the back. Paula & Paul went back down the hill we had just climbed to help, while we waited for news. I WhatsApped Anurag who said he had missed a turn and was heading directly for Dover; I relayed this to P&P, who returned a few moments later and we pressed on; arrived at the port in good time to catch our 18:50 ferry. Anurag arrived a few minutes later, having taken the direct A2 route and the rapid descent it provided.

Evening meal McDonalds style aboard the ferry, then a 4.45 mile ride to our Calais hotel, with lights.

Day 2; Thursday, 1/5/25 Calais - Ypres; 58.51 miles

Checking the route before setting off enabled me to take the cycle path to our left  for 150 m to the roundabout that we would have taken a mile to get to, had we followed the route. A good omen for the day, I thought.

Out in the countryside, a little east of Gravelines and our route was barred. We decided to carry on, and found ourselves looking at a water culvert crossing the path. I said I would check out if there was a way round it to the right (large grade gravel the whole way).

I did so. There was, but not at all suitable for cyclists - but there was no alternative. The rest joined me and struggled up the raised bank to the new road I had found - apparently Route Inter-Atlantique.

Lunch at a bar in Esquelbecq was saved by Lawrence’s quick thinking of going to the only open store and getting some filled baguettes; 1st May is a bank holiday in France and most places were closed. A km further, we laid our wreath at the Wormhoudt Massacre Barn, with Standard dipped and Exhortation recited.

It was market day in Poperinge. The streets were lined with tables of white elephant goods - even a Brompton - and, as we had time, we had a very welcome Magnum (the ice cream version).

Once refreshed at our hotel, some of us went on a battlefield tour in the minibus - https://maps.app.goo.gl/WjW1bbUC9wmtepbN6

Returning in time to get changed for The Last Post Association service at The Menin Gate at 8:00 pm, our wreath was laid with the Standard on parade alongside a Canadian pipe band. We presented our CoA to the Last Post Association after the service, which they seemed thrilled with.

Chris had lost a shoe, and in the chaos of trying to find it, missed the service and the meal. But being pre-ordered, his burger & chips were served anyway. Nigel accepted the challenge (the chips were shared) and soon there were clean plates everywhere. That shoe was later found in Nigel's luggage.

Day 3; Friday 2/5/25 Ypres - Antwerp: 101.81 miles

Setting off on the stroke of 8:00 am (right), another hot day and we were soon ahead of time; but our first stop opened at 10:00 and we got there at 9:30, so we pressed on in fine form. Laid a wreath at the alter in the American Forces Cemetery at Waregem; and soon after we arrived at the Peloton Cafe, Oudenaarde. Although a popular place for cyclists, the adjoining cycle store had a poor range of kit - and the cafe didn’t have any filled rolls. Lunch was fashioned from store bought rolls, cheese, ham, salami, tomatoes, strawberries and salad, thanks to Bill, our logistics driver.

Most of the rest of the day was spent cycling along canal paths - far wider than English ones that I’m used to. And their pedestrian / cyclist bridges were works of art!

Inside the Antwerp ring road, our route took us into a very strange tunnel system; down a flight of stairs (bike trough on both sides) to an underpass beneath the River Scheldt; and then a similar arrangement to exit the other side; there was a lift each side, but queues, as well.

No surprise to find our group split up - we had used different exits, which delayed our meeting the RBL Antwerp Branch at the Cromwell Tank memorial by a few moments. Wreaths were laid, etc; and we went our ways - to meet up again at The Highlander pub for dinner; the Flemish stew & chips was amazing! And another CoA presented - look out for it if you’re ever in The Highlander, Antwerp (below).
It had rained in the afternoon, and our peace (and warmth) was restored by this kind lady and the contents of that bottle (right). 

Day 4: Saturday 3/5/25 Antwerp - Mönchengladbach (MGB): 103.27 miles

There are quite a few tram tracks in Antwerp, so there was lots more caution setting off. Construction works soon stopped us in our tracks - a daily occurence. Fortunately, a local cyclist came along, and suggested we follow him around the obstruction. Soon after we rejoined our canal-side route, I realised we had swept past our planned cafe stop - and finding one that was open was proving difficult. Someone found one just a few km further along the canal - on the other side - so we crossed over the lock that was there and found the SAS7 cafe; shaded (or not) seating outside, with a coffee and apfelstrudel was lovely (below).

 The food and service - especially the quiche (below) - at the Wonderland Koffie & Thee Café, Bocholt was amazing!

 More canalside riding to Bocholt, and the new, steel pedestrian and cyclist bridge (right) became our WhatsApp group badge as we recrossed the bridge from lunch.

Our dinner in MGB, at Trattoria Maccheroni (7 minutes walk) was booked for us by the MGB RBL Branch (AKA Rheindahlen Branch). Alistar Clarke was my contact and, with our 10, the table had over 20 covers. I sat next to a very interesting gent - Rex - who had so many amusing tales! One more CoA presented and it was time to make our way to bed.

Day 5; Sunday 4/5/25 MGB - Münster: 103.60 miles

Once again setting off ahead of time, and with a nip in the air, jackets were the top choice. On our way  through Krefeld our route took us up a helter-skelter track, round and round several times, to exit next to an elevated dual carriageway. All our planned rest stops were closed; fortunately Bill was able to find us alternatives nearby (below) or have the makings of a good filled roll available.

Balkan Bacherei (above) Bella the robot (below)

 As it was not only a Sunday, but a bank holiday weekend, there weren’t many places to eat in the evening, but Phil, Branch Secretary & StandardBearer at RBL Münster Branch, had booked us a table at Rocco’s (which we learned at 18:30 and with about 10 or 20 km to go, that they closed at 21:00). Bella the robot delivered our food and later returned the plates to the kitchen.

Months earlier, Phil had liaised with the nearby Lützow Kaserne army barracks for our accommodation (and breakfast the next day).

 Day 6; Monday 5/5/25 Münster - Hameln: 88.63 miles

After returning our bedding, we cycled round to the breakfast block where, once finished, I presented CoAs to
Phil and another (in German) to the head cook (below). Our next stop was the Heath CWGC, (below) with Phil. I was heartened to learn they have a completely new branch committee.

   a typical German cycle path, above; a certain "married quarter" revisited, below

Harsewinkel was our next coffee stop, and at the edge of town was where Paula lived with her Mum & Dad when she was 8. Dad was in the RAF at Güttersloh back then. Next was a coffee & cake, and we went on to see where Paul & Paula had been living after they were wed, when he served in the Army Air Corps; their married quarters were on the other side of town. Paul & Paula met at RAF Gatow; she had become the Brigadier’s PA.

On our way to Augustdorf for our last stop before Hameln, our route turned nasty; a steep, gravelly forest path that would only be pedalable on a mountain bike - with their tiny chainrings. We all walked up most of it, and took extra, extra care descending the other side.

Glorious views, though (panorama shot, below)

At Hameln we met Bob Tyler, our 10th cyclist who had offered us 8 beds for the night (Paul & Paula were to sleep in the hotel a 2 minute bike ride away). He had liaised with Deweze, a local paper that had dispatched a reporter; he took several pictures, and interviewed us (some had actually served at Hameln in the British Army). This affected when weary cyclists could use Bob’s sauna, but it wasn’t long before we were settling into getting the right side of a beer or two. The BBQ was on the go, what more could anyone ask?

Day 7; Tuesday 6/5/25 Hameln - Bergen: 74.05 miles

The first third of day 7 was mostly uphill - and the two last hills were the best (or worst; it depends on your point of view) of the whole ride. I knew this stage would be tough, and Bob said at our first stop at Egestorf that he’d get to the Hannover CWGC and then take the train home. We met Claudia from the RBL Hannover Branch and laid a wreath, etc. After our coffee stop a few meters down the road at an REWE (a German superstore chain) I presented our CoA to Claudia and we set off for Bergen Belsen, the Nazi death camp. 

We arrived there at 17:45, and as it closes daily at 18:00, it wasn’t appropriate to enter the museum (which is well worth a visit). Instead, I took a couple of leaflets and we paid our respects at Anne Frank’s grave. Chris had researched poems from Bergen Belsen, and chosen one to be read here during the previous RBL Bike to Berlin in 2022. He was unable to deliver it then, but did so with us.

Later, we signed the book next to where the previous cyclists had, and he presented the book to me for safe keeping; for it says more than just the words it contains that we, that are left, should keep the memory alive. I accepted the book and intend to contact my local Jewish community to decide how best to do just that.

Would you believe it - the 6th May was Paula & Paul's 30th wedding anniversary! The straw art en-route was just too coincidental...

 a newly married couple, and another of 30 years, above; RBL Bergen Hohne Branch, below

 Only another few miles up the road lies the Niedersachsen Kaserne Camp, and a little further on, the RBL Bergen-Hohne Branch, where Keith Orton and his crew were there to welcome us to a no-cost feast! Bikes secured in the RBL, another CoA presented, everyone fed and watered and we boarded the bus to the barracks. Keith had also liaised with the nearby barracks for our accommodation and, although there was a modest charge for the rooms, the showers were amazing.

Day 8; Wednesday 7/5/25 Bergen - Tangermünder: 101.2 miles

We returned our bedding again then everyone jumped back aboard the good ship minibus to the RBL for 07:00 to a good breakfast, laid on by Keith and his crew; and one more CoA presented to Torsen (above), Keith's contact at the camp. We set off a little before 08:00 after a group photo. 

Smooth, clear, almost traffic-free route - with cycle path beside it - to our first coffee at Hankensbüttel. Although the cafe was closed (they had the builders in) the bakery it was twinned with, was. And had seats. More of the same cycle paths to our next stop, a supermarket store, where we used Bill’s picnic method again.

Then, a few meters further down the road, Nigel had a puncture. Those that were with him stayed to help get it sorted, so help with closing the gap with the group. Luckily, although this was a Continental tyre and reputedly horrendous to remove and particularly to refit, Chris was able to do the latter bare-handed! But a few more miles on and the same wheel punctured again, luckily just beside a bus stop. This time, we stayed together to see it fixed - and the thorn was found, this time. Nigel gave it his best effort to refit the tyre, but had to hand it to Chris to do. Who, as Nigel was pumping it back up, made a loud explosive noise - and everyone jumped out of their skins - even a passing German cyclist. But at least there were no more punctures.

A little further on, we stopped for photos at the old east/west German border. Just a sign now, but back in the day there was a lot more going on.

One more stop at the Ice Cafe Piccolo in Kalbe, left a mere 48 km to end of the day.

Our dinner at Zecheri Sankt Nicholai in Tangermünder had been pre-booked, as their menu offered a “small feast for over 10 people”. They also offered 5L steins of beer... However, knowing this was one of our longer days, I was concerned they might have a problem with the meal. They said the latest we could get there to be served this small feast was 19:30, as the food is slow cooked and to order; which made things a bit tight for time - especially having to fix punctures on the way. However, we did manage it - and the meal was simply amazing.

a 5L stein, above; a married couple, below

Retiring for a nightcap at our hotel, the manager was asked if she had Amaretto; she did and when (those that had remained) decided we would all like one, was asked how much she wanted for the bottle. She didn’t know - and asked us how much we would pay for in a shop. €15 was suggested. “€20 then” she said and the deal was done.

Day 9; Thursday 8/5/25 Tangermünder - Berlin: 85.13 miles

Our last day looked warm, dry and windless. But we chose to keep those jackets on for the first stretch, anyway (above). After crossing the Elbe River, our route turned south towards Jerichow along a dyke, topped with the smoothest, flat tarmac yet; and gave some amazing opportunities to capture the scenery (below).

One of the better bakeries on the trip (I dare say, we all had our favourites) was at Coffee Corner, Brandenburg; a little tricky with the tram tracks running right past.

Pressing on to Potsdam, along seemingly endless straight, flat, virtually traffic free cycle paths and roads - compared to UK roads at least - brought us to the Brandenburger Tor in Potsdam; not to be confused with the Brandenburg Tor in Berlin. Tables at the cafe (below) were mostly all taken, but we managed to squeeze in - and the clients around were willing to move around to give us the room we needed, especially when we pumped up a lady’s flat wheelchair tyre.

Diverting a few hundred yards to take pictures on the “Bridge of Spies” (below)

we had only 15 miles to the Berlin CWGC, where we had arranged to meet members of the RBL Berlin Branch, through my contact Jack Knox. Our route took us past the perimeter fence of RAF Gatow, and Paul pointed out the various points of interest that might have still been there beyond the trees.

Jack and his team met us at the cemetery at 4:00, and we brought our bikes up to the level area for security. The Branch vicar was in attendance and, when everyone was assembled, we set off to the Stone of Sacrifice where he delivered a sermon; asked if anyone would like to deliver the proclamation and, interpreting this as The Exhortation, I stepped forward and did so; he then gave us The Last Post via smart speaker and their Standard and Union Flag were dipped. Silence was kept. Wreaths were laid. Prayers were said, and National Anthems - the UK’s, Germany’s and the EU’s. After I had presented another CoA, I replied to the question “Would you like to pop in for a drink?” with “No - we’re off to the Neue Wache, and it closes at 6.” It was by then past 4:30, and we had another 8 miles of Berlin traffic to get through.

Keeping together, traffic lights only split our group once, and from then on everyone was "on the ball". We made it with half an hour to spare, which included the obligatory photos with the Brandenburg Tor background (below).

From the left, above; Anurag, Paul J, Paul H, Paula, Craog, Chris, Rhys, Lawrence and Nigel.

The Neue Wache - “New Watch” - is the German National monument to all victims of war and terror, and is a 1.5 times bronze of a grieving mother comforting her dying son. Wikipedia has this link; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neue_Wache.

Our last CoAs were presented after our evening meal - to the cyclists and their support driver;
Bill “The Rock” Fisk (logistics); Rhys “Elsa” Morgan, Paula “Big Ring” Jones, Paul “wobble” Jones
Lawrence “don’t touch my brakes” Snowden, Chris “The Creak” Nutland, Nigel “2 burgers” Cairns,
Craig “The Hulk” Stobbs, Anurag “spokes” Chandra. I ended up with Paul "The Postman" Harding.

I asked our team what their 3 most memorable things of the ride were;

Lawrence; 

Kindness and generosity shown by all British Legion members and the lovely groups that we met.

Comradeship and support within us all to sort out the puzzles that inevitably arise on a cycling tour e.g the  closed roads puzzle just out of Calais.

And perhaps my totally wrong misconception that I thought Germany would be wanting to forget the two World Wars.  How in Berlin especially, there is a concerted effort by the people that there is no chance of ever forgetting the atrocities of war.

Rhys;

My defining moments are numerous. There’s the canal crossing in the early days which we overcame with humour and teamwork which set a precedent throughout the ride. The amount of interest in our quest shown by the local people a moment during that were the immortal words uttered by a cafe proprietor; “Who do you think I am, your mother?” directed at a member of our group. Another thing I remember distinctly is the shopkeeper getting upset in Brandenberg when we dared to lean our bikes against his shop's flower pot . But overall the most defining thing was the overwhelming generosity and heartfelt help from the RBL, both at the accommodation and the memorial services.

Paula;

1.⁠ ⁠The opportunity to bring together a varied bunch of people who have a mutual passion for cycling, which created a ‘one team’ spirit.

2.⁠ ⁠⁠Smiling when faced with adversity (after a little moan of course!) and just getting on with it.

3.⁠ ⁠⁠How disorganised ex-military people can be.

Paul J;

For me the opportunity to visit Hannover CWGC Cemetery and laying a wreath at the graves of friends and colleagues from my Sqn and Regt who were tragically lost during my time in Germany was an honour and will be the defining memory of the tour for me.

But add to that the generosity of the RBL for hosting us at various stages and the comradeship and banter of all those taking part has made for a very memorable and enjoyable trip.

Oh and cycling through Harsewinkel and standing outside our quarter was a great moment.

Anurag;

1) The team that formed did so within hours… we were together for 10 days and never did it feel that anyone was out of place…
2) The places we visited were as important if not more than the ride we did… the moments of reality hitting us with history
3) Epic planning and responding to unplanned changes.

Chris;

1: Ride Organisation and Logistics “Paul and Bill” 

2: RBL team at Hohne 

3: “The Riders” 

4: “The Quiche and The Strudel”

Nigel;

Camaraderie 

Meeting the Germans in the RBL

Memorial Service in Berlin on VE Day with British and Germans

If I may add a fourth: completing the challenge!

Craig;

1, The people who I met - my fellow cyclists, and the ones on the way 

2, The Last Post ceremony with the pipes 

3, The pride of finishing the ride all together 

4, I know it's meant to be 3 but have to add the Cakes

Bill;

My memories from the tour, brothers in arms (above right and below left) Menin gate wreath laying officers drill (below right, at Antwerp) and the groups ability to load a minibus!

For more on the Brothers in Arms, please look here. 

Paul H;

For me, the big 3 things were the superb condition of the vast majority of the roads, cycle paths and bridges we rode on; the gelling together of an almost random group of people - from 52 to 72 years old - to get such a monumental task completed; and keeping the camaraderie - the esprit de corps - of the RBL alive and well in this 21st century.

Thank you everyone that has been a part of the Bike to Berlin 2025 for making it happen.

Paul Harding

National Cyclists Branch Secretary, The Royal British Legion