BIKE to BERLIN 2022;       30/4/22 to 8/5/22   773.5 miles

Having missed riding to Berlin in 2020, I asked the RBL Cyclists FB group who would want to join me in 2022, arriving on the anniversary of the declaration of surrender; with 12 replies, and an offer of a support driver of vast experience, the project was born.

Day1; Cenotaph - Dover; DFDS - Calais; 80.8 miles

Setting off from The Cenotaph after Judith had laid a wreath at 8:20, we made excellent progress (considering the traffic lights) until we found ourselves dropping rapidly into the Bluewater Shopping Centre - which I knew was not on our route. Soon after, we came to the Kentish cycle way beside the M2. 

Then, approaching Strood, the cycle path seemed to sign back onto the motorway, so we pressed on - adding 10 miles to our day, and made us too late for our first Branch stop, Sittingbourne.      

        A typical Kentish cycle track

Pressing onto Canterbury, we were welcomed at the Guildhall by the RBL and a sumptuous spread, arranged by the Town Council through the RBL Branch Chairman, Eric Hearn. Our certificate of appreciation (CoA) was received by Jan, their Branch President. 

              Canterbury RBL / Civic reception spread, above

Soon after leaving, 3 of our fitter riders missed the turning on our route but still got to Dover 20 minutes ahead of the rest.

Jo (Philippe’s wife) left us at the ferry terminal to return home - and we took her bike on board for Chloe (their daughter, who works in Paris) to ride from Calais to Minden.

Day 2; Calais - Ypres, 52.6 miles

A bright, clear blue sky all day - as were most days - and our first stop in Esquelbecq was at a bar, that was fortunately across the road from a baguette and cake shop. 

A few minutes on, our next wreath laying (by Steve) was at the Wormhout Massacre Barn; site of a renowned war atrocity. 

Arriving in Ypres in good time for a battlefield tour, we changed and used the minibus to visit Essex Farm, Yorkshire Trench, Langemark (where Holger laid a wreath) Poelcapelle (found the grave of John Condon, reputedly the youngest casualty of WW1 at 14 years old) and Tyne Cot. 

Already in SB kit, I strolled off for the Menin Gate and, on my way, stopped off at a bar called “Biking Box”. Kurt Titeca, the owner, asked me about what we were doing - and then asked if he could join us on the first stretch out of Ypres tomorrow; which I couldn’t refuse. He mentioned that he had an idea about organising a ride similar to ours, but to start from Ypres - the world acknowledges home of peace - to Mariupol, once the war in Ukraine is over - “RIDE FOR PEACE”. I offered him my full support. 

Day 3; Ypres - Leuven, 103.4 miles

Kurt arrived at 8.00, and after presenting our CoA (to put on his wall) and exchanging shirts (as one does) we set off and soon found he was leading us along a stretch of newly-constructed cycle way beside a lake. He explained that the first thing he wanted to show us was the Canadian memorial at Hill 62 - which was equally important as Vimy Ridge, as their call for reinforcements when under attack was declined by the Allies. They managed to repel the attack and, in doing so unaided, made a reputation for the Canadian forces on both sides. Kurt then led us past the Liverpool & Scottish Memorial and on to one that was only opened in March 2022 - “Brothers in Arms” - and this is so moving, it deserves a separate article.

 Brothers in Arms Memorial, above
The owner of the cafe “De Dreve” nearby showed us the work he had done, on a large screen hooked up to a laptop; suffice to say, anyone organising a battlefield tour near Ypres should include this in their itinerary - especially the cafe.

At the Flanders Fields American War Cemetery, Waregem, Patti & Holger laid a wreath at the altar, and we set off for the Peloton Cafe in Oudenaarde - bike kit wall art, below!

On the way, we were obliged to take a cyclist road crossing, which consisted of a pair of circular ramps joined by a bridge over a dual carriageway. Weird.

The tour by Kurt had put us 2 hours behind schedule, so I called Russ and he advised that our contact at Brussels Branch would meet us in Leuven, at the end of our day - by-passing Brussels in the afternoon rush hour.

Day 4; Leuven - Monchengladbach (MGB), 83.1 miles

Another long day, and so we decided to set off as early as we could - 7:30 - and actually arrived at our 1st rest stop ahead of schedule; there really is a first time for everything. But as the venue wasn’t open, we went into the deli cafe nearby and had a lovely coffee and baguette (below, in their secluded courtyard).

Chris N’s daughter, Becky, with his grandchildren had driven down from Utrecht to see him at our next stop, in Susteren (Holland) which offered chips with different sauces - but couldn’t accept any of my cards. Luckily, Wendy was able to pay, and I repaid Chris once returned home.

Today’s weather was glorious, as was the route; smooth, traffic free cycling.

A few km short of our hotel, Chris N had a puncture and, rather than delay the whole group, he urged the rest of us to press on and get an early shower. 

He, Holger and John would be able to fix it and catch us up. 

Leading the rest on our way, we found a couple of bus stop signs - “Woof” and “Bau” ! Here’s the one for “Woof”, below;

Unfortunately, on their return, a German cyclist collided into him, dislocating a finger and bruising a few ribs. John went with him to hospital, and Russ was called back to load their bikes with Holger. 

Thinking they’ll be hours, I texted him suggesting he go straight to our restaurant (Trattoria Maccheroni, booked by the MGB Branch). He replied that he was already in a taxi with John and will arrive at our hotel - they were less than an hour in the hospital!

Eleven MGB Branch members met us in the restaurant and were duly concerned by our news; and very interested in our adventure. 

Our CoA was gratefully accepted by their Branch President, Steve Owen.

Day 5; MGB - Münster, 105 miles

Chris N decided he would be a liability continuing on the ride, so we agreed that Russ would drop him off at Dusseldorf railway station and he would travel up to Utrecht and spend some time with his daughter’s family before returning home.

Chris packed his bike into his bike box, and we loaded it into the minibus.

Another glorious day’s cycling weather, but our usual smooth cycling tracks had turned into an endless sequence of traffic lights; this was the industrial heartland of Germany, after all - through MGB, Essen, Duisburg and Dortmund. There were the occasional cycle only tracks, but nothing like what we were getting used to.     

Philippe and Paul, in Eddy Merckx tops, below

Shortly after our rest stop in Duisburg, my left pedal caught the corner of an almost invisible concrete seat in a public open space; this stopped my bike so abruptly, I went over the handlebars and landed on my left index finger, dislocating it. John stepped up and, with his help, we reset it within a minute. 

The bike was not quite so easily fettled; the rear derailleur had bent, and I seemed unable to change gear. After a little TLC, I was able to continue to Dortmund and affect a more permanent fettle (with a big spanner) - but will need to replace the whole thing (the derailleur, not the bike) once I get home. 

While there, I presented our CoA to the Dortmund Branch member, Dominic.

Arriving in Münster in twilight - and foolishly ignored the sign saying “<— Lutzow Kasserne”, and took the other road around the camp….

Realising that, to get onto any military camp, you have to report to the guardroom, we retraced our track and found the Rheindahlen Branch Chairman, Roy was already there, ready to book us in. 

He and Kim had prepared our pasta meal in the Branch Headquarters, which hardly touched the sides, washed down as it was with a few beers. 

He then led us around to our barracks accommodation.

Münster Branch Certificate of Appreciation, above

Day 6; Münster - Minden, 80.8 miles

Another early start - off in the minibus to Handorf for breakfast in the Bäckerei Schrunz (above). Then back to the camp to begin the day’s cycling - to the Heath Commonwealth War Grave Cemetery for Judith & Chris G to lay a wreath amongst dappled sunlight and birdsong; I played “The Last Post” by Rachel Bostock (violin) on my ‘phone. 

Riding out of the site, over some sandy tracks, some deer were seen loitering about; but they soon cleared off as we approached.

Lunch in Osnabrück was at the Wellmann Bäckerei, with Kerstin - who had come from Gutersloh to see us - and received our CoA. 

I hadn’t called my Osnabrück Branch contact when I should have; but he opened up the Legion HQ while we finished eating, and we popped round and spent time there enjoying the facilities (and presenting our CoA).

Pressing on to the Cafe Klein in Herford, where we met “Dusty” Miller, the District of Germany Chairman; he accepted our CoA for Herford Branch and, since I had a few spares, asked him how I should write his CoA - “Germany District”, or something else? He requested “District of Germany” and so I set too with my calligraphy pen & ink and had it done in a few minutes ready for everyone to sign; mounted in a fresh certificate frame, and presented. He said he would table these at the forthcoming District meeting, and wished us well on our way.

Plentiful cycle paths today, and lots of sunshine, with light tail winds made for amazing cycling. 

Arrived Minden at 8:00pm and met Joe, Steve and their wives from RBL Minden. A quick shower and change, and we were off to the Classico Wein Bar, booked by the Branch for the occasion and another CoA presented.

Once again, my cards failed - but the owner offered to accept PayPal and so, for the first time in my life, I was able use this to pay a restaurant bill! And I asked him if I could increase the amount by €500 - so I could avoid multiple card failures - but he couldn’t do that. Instead, he gave me €500 in cash, on the understanding that Joe would repay him, and I would repay Joe (which I have done, once back in UK)

Day 7; Minden - Bergen, 77.4 miles

We all said goodbye to Chloe, who returned to Paris on the train, then off we went, taking Joe’s tip to an underpass, and soon found ourselves in scenic countryside.

First stop, Bad Nendorf at another Bäckerei, coffee and sitting in dappled sunlight again. You really can get used to this.
There was no-one around to meet in Hannover, so we stopped at the first cafe we saw. Today’s route would have taken us to the east of Hannover and on to Falling-Bostel Heide (FBH), with a total of 99 miles. So I tried to contact FBH and see if they would meet us at Bergen-Hohne; we would navigate off-route using Google Maps directly to the Bergen-Belsen exhibition. 

Sadly however, somewhere en route, we took a turning off a perfectly smooth, quiet country road onto a tree-lined, cobbled track that soon turned into a sandy, forest track. OMG. There are wolves in German forests, right? 8 miles later, the lead rider spotted a car off to their left - which meant a road, and civilisation - and we were saved ! A further 8 miles and Russ and Keith Oreton, Chairman of Bergen-Hohne Branch met us at the entrance to Bergen-Belsen, which the SS turned into a concentration camp in 1943. The exhibition centre closed in an hour, so we browsed our way through that then moved along to the Jewish memorial and I laid our wreath on behalf of the Northwood United Synagogue; Steve laid another at the main memorial after reading a poem chosen by Chris N.

               Jewish Memorial at Bergen-Belsen, below

Another 3 miles up the road was the Bergen-Hohne Branch HQ - and an amazing reception was prepared; pie & chips, served under the watchful eye of WO1 Torsten Gaede, Keith’s liaison at the Niedersachsen Kaserne barracks, and our accommodation for the evening. Steve mentioned he was stationed there for a while when serving in REME, BAOR, as he presented our CoA to Keith - and later I presented another, in German, to Torsten. Keith asked if we were fund raising; as this was more a memorial ride, we used our Poppy Appeal collecting bucket, and raised funds for their Branch Poppy Appeal - “All cash in this bucket at the end of the evening will be donated to your Branch Poppy Appeal!” €180.00 was raised.

The guitarist played a few Johnny Cash numbers while we finished our meal, then launched into Pink Floyd’s “Wish you were here” and quite a few of us sang along at the top of our voices.

 Bergen barrack accommodation, below

Day 8; Bergen - Tangermünde, 101.5 miles

Breakfast back at the Branch HQ, and Keith had laid out a feast for us; shades of those old Enid Blyton “Famous Five” books came to mind. He declined my offer of a donation for his hospitality and so, as they were unable to find a Poppy Appeal collecting bucket the previous evening, I gave him ours.
Over 100 miles today, and crossing into what was East Germany (they do cobbles differently there) - yet we still arrived at our accommodation before schedule. Mostly because it was downhill a lot, on smooth, quiet roads or cycle tracks - and few traffic lights. Cruising at 17 and even 18 mph!

               East Germany border sign, below

Awesome rest stops, too - especially the Ice Cafe Piccolo in Kalbe - €1 per scoop, and the whole bill was only €13!

Our accommodation for the evening was in a block of flats, not an actual hotel; and so we needed to find a nearby cafe that would be open early the next day, a  Sunday. Fortunately, walking through the beautiful town to Zecherai Sankt Nicholi; a traditional German restaurant where, if you’re in the mood, you can hire period costumes to really set the scene. I had chosen this eatery on basis that they offer 5 litre steins of beer (other beverages were available) and we tried both the light and the dark local ales. Preferring the darker side, we had a third. Struggling with the menu, I suggested that Holger, whose parents were German, Russ and Steve who had both served in Germany, each chose their meal and the rest of us would choose from their selections; and this was thought a good idea.

“I’ll have the hamburger schnitzel” said Holger (holding a 5 litre stein, above); “That looks good - I’ll have that as well” replied Steve; “So will I” added Russ. And so we all had the schnitzel; which was very good.

Just to explain about the 5 litre beers; they all came with a ladle, and we each had a one litre stein.